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Tired of stubborn dark spots that just won’t fade, no matter what you try? Whether it’s melasma, acne scars, or sun damage, hyperpigmentation is an absolute pain in the behind. In your search for the best ingredient to treat that hyperpigmentation, you might have heard about Arbutin, often called the natural alternative to Hydroquinone.

 

 

Well, today I’m breaking down how it works, if it is safe, how long it will take to see results and how to best incorporate it into your routine!

 

 

What is Arbutin and how does it work?

Arbutin comes from the leaves of different plants including blue and bear berries. It is a derivative of Hydroquinone, one of the most potent ingredients we have to target hyperpigmentation. If you look at its structure, you can see that it is basically Hydroquinone with a sugar molecule attached. (More info: Everything you need to know about the benefits of Hydroquinone in skincare)

 

 

You might come across three different names for it: Alpha-Arbutin, Beta-Arbutin and Deoxyarbutin. While Beta-Arbutin is the one naturally occurring, the other two are synthesized and seem to be more stable and effective.

If you have read my post on the ten best ingredients to fight hyperpigmentation (if not, you can find it here), you will know that developing hyperpigmentation is a complex process with several steps, each of which can (and should) be addressed for the best results.

Arbutin works by three different mechanisms:

It competes with Tyrosine for its spot in the enzyme Tyrosinase, meaning it occupies the spot Tyrosine needs to fit into in order for melanin to be build.

It also inhibits DHICA (5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid) polymerase activity, again hindering melanin production.

And lastly it slows down the process when the existing melanin is packaged into so called melanosomes, which are the parcels in which it is distributed to their final place in the keratinocytes.

All three mechanisms mean it prevents new hyperpigmentation after a trigger from forming, allowing the existing one to be slowly exfoliated off and brightened in the process. It does not bleach the overall skin and has antiinflammatory and antioxidant properties.

 

 

Is Arbutin better than Hydroquinone?

Arbutin is closely related to Hydroquinone and can through enzymatic processes release Hydroquinone over time when it is split up into Glucose on one hand and Hydroquinone in the other. But while both have similar effects on the skin in the way they target hyperpigmentation, there are also profound differences.

Hydroquinone is in higher concentrations cytotoxic for the melanocytes and the melanosomes, meaning it can destroy them. That is a very effective and final way of preventing hyperpigmentation, but also the reason why Hydroquinone can be very irritating and has some side effects that make it unfit to be used over a prolonged period of time and without a doctors guidance once you surpass a certain concentration.

Arbutin has a competitive effect, meaning it doesn’t damage or destroy anything, it merely slows down the process, making it much safer and less irritating. And even the small amount of Hydroquinone it can release on the skin through enzymatic breakdown will not reach the concentrations of a dedicated Hydroquinone product.

That of course also means that the effect it has is much slower and much weaker than the effect of Hydroquinone, which is the gold standard for treating stubborn pigmentation like melasma. (More info: The different types of hyperpigmentation explained)

In the end if Arbutin or Hydroquinone is better for you as an individual will depend on the severity of your hyperpigmentation, your skins threshold for irritation and the question if you want a drug treatment prescribed by a doctor and requiring regular follow-ups or something you can get over the counter.

 

 

How long does it take to see results with Arbutin?

The gentler a product is on the skin, the longer it will take to see results, so have patience. Hyperpigmentation will always take ages to fade, and the fact that Arbutin works at the production part means that first the already existing one needs to exfoliate off, so basically grow out layer by layer and fly off in the wind before you can see that there is no new one forming underneath, a process that will, depending on the rest of your routine, take several weeks.

Assuming that you diligently protect your skin from the sun and other triggers, meaning you wear that SPF and have inflammatory triggers in your skin like acne or eczema under control – if there is ongoing inflammation, the Arbutin won’t be strong enough to stop new pigmentation from forming. That would be like trying to empty a bathtub with a cup while the water is running.

 

 

Can Arbutin be used with other skincare ingredients?

Arbutin is an ingredient that can very well be used in the same routine as others. In fact, when pairing it with other ingredients targeting hyperpigmentation like Niacinamide or Vitamin C, they can develop synergistic effects, meaning that together they work even better than the individual ingredient on its own. Of course the usual words of caution apply: Don’t throw a ton of different things on your face and then act surprised if you get irritation, but adding Arbutin into your existing regime shouldn’t pose difficulties. (More info: The best way to combine your skincare ingredients)

Don’t pair it with Benzoylperoxide or Hypochlorous Acid directly, as both are oxidants that will hinder its antioxidant abilities – let them absorb first and then go on with your routine.

 

 

How often should I use Arbutin, and when should I apply it?

In terms of when Arbutin fits best into your routine, it is completely up to you: You can use it both morning and night or even twice a day and as mentioned before can pair it with anything you already have in your routine.

Daily use is no problem either.

At which step in your routine you should apply it depends on the product you chose, but generally speaking it belongs to the “treat” step if you follow the “Cleanse – Hydrate – Treat – Protect” plan.

Usually concentrations of up to 2% are available, but here like in any other product it is true that the concentration on the label, if disclosed at all, only tells one part of the story and that the formulation will affect its efficacy much more.

 

 

Is Arbutin safe for all skin types, in pregnancy and for long term use?

The fact that it is so closely related to Hydroquinone is probably the reason why people are unsure about the safety of Arbutin, so to make it crystal clear: Arbutin is safe for long term use. There is no need for a break after a certain period of time like there is with Hydroquinone and no need for people with skin of color to fear hypopigmentation. Remember, it is not cytotoxic, meaning it will not permanently damage your melanocytes.

It is also non irritating, meaning the possibility to trigger hyperpigmentation in itself through causing inflammation in the skin is minimal – never zero because there is no such thing that is completely free of any risk for irritation: it always comes down to your skin.

There are only two theoretical scenarios in which it could have adverse effects: One is if it isn’t stored properly and the container is exposed to temperatures well above 40° C for prolonged periods of time. In this case it could degrade in the container and be split into Glucose and Hydroquinone, meaning that when you apply the product, you actually apply Hydroquinone with all its irritating potential. This is a theoretical risk and to my knowledge not something that has ever happened “in the wild”, but now you know.

The second is if you layer a lot of products with Arbutin in them: You have a hydrating serum plus Arbutin that you pair with a dedicated hyperpigmentation serum with Arbutin, then seal in with a moisturizer with Arbutin and lastly apply a sunscreen featuring Arbutin for example. Then you could reach concentrations so high that there might, again in theory, be a risk for paradoxical hyperpigmentation. Never heard of it happening in real life, but as always it is best to pick your products mindfully and only use those that have a purpose.

Now for the use of Arbutin during pregnancy: Hydroquinone when it enters the blood stream in high enough concentrations can have a negative effect on the baby. As Arbutin releases Hydroquinone, you will hear some people tell you to avoid Arbutin as well, just to be safe. When I was pregnant, I didn’t have Arbutin on my list of ingredients to avoid and brands like The Inkey List declare their 2% Arbutin products as safe for pregnancy and breastfeeding. Should I, heaven forbid, get pregnant again by accident in my old age, I would without any hesitation keep using Arbutin, but in full transparency: There are no studies done on absorption in the bloodstream, and most likely there never will be. Which is, I admit, not a very satisfying answer, but I wanted you to know the full backstory if you read conflicting information on the internet.

 

TL;DR

Alpha Arbutin is often called a natural alternative to Hydroquinone. It works by inhibiting melanin production, preventing new pigmentation so existing spots fade over time. It’s gentler than Hydroquinone, making it safer for long-term use, but that also means it works more slowly. The key is consistency—apply it daily, pair it with sunscreen, and don’t expect overnight results. It’s a great option for all skin types, even sensitive ones, and can be used with other brightening ingredients like Niacinamide or Vitamin C. Want to know more about how to safely incorporate Alpha Arbutin into your skincare routine? Watch the full video on my channel!

 

 

 

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