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Before you look into Copper Peptides, you need to cover your skincare basics – sunscreen, antioxidants and probably a retinoid. But once you did that and, like me, are of a certain age as they say, peptides and especially Copper peptides you might want to consider.
I won’t go into detail on the data today (you can find more info on that here: Everything you need to know about Peptides in skincare) but instead focus on reviewing the Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptides Rapid Plumping Serum and how I think it compares to other options available.
What Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptides Rapid Plumping Serum claims
Innovative moisture complex for instant and long-lasting hydration.
The claim I was actually expecting – “collagen boosting copper peptides” comes further down in the description. It is also paraphrased as “encourages collagen production”, which is basically a non-claim, as “encourages” in itself is not defined.
(More info: Can cosmetics cure acne?)
Facts about the Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptides Rapid Plumping Serum
Prize and size
One bottle contains 50 ml (which is more than your average serum) and is available for 68 $ on the website here. It is vegan and has a dropper for application.
Texture and smell
The first thing you will notice is the baby blue color. As there are no colorants added – at least none that I could spot – the color probably comes from the Copper-PCA, a salt that is light blue, and the copper peptides.
But don’t worry, it won’t tint the skin. While it applies very smoothly, it is a little tacky for the first few minutes, but never pilled.
There is a very, very! faint metallic scent.
How to use the Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptides Rapid Plumping Serum
Copper Peptides aren’t sensitive to light, so you could use the serum either in your am or pm routine. Some brands advise against pairing Copper Peptides with strong Acids, retinoids or even Vitamin C at a low pH out of concern that the peptides might undergo hydrolysis and lose effectiveness, but if you decide that you want them in the same routine and see good effects, there is no harm in doing so.
I use Vitamin C every morning and Tretinoin every other night, so I use this one on the nights I did not use Tretinoin – I try to have as little layers in my routine as possible anyway, as I usually can’t be bothered to use multiple serums. (More info: What is Skinimalism?)
Overall I didn’t find it to be hydrating, I think the Copper PCA counteracts the hydration offered by the so called “Rapid Plumping Complex”, the trio of Hyaluronic Acid, Polyglutamic Acid and Squalane. (More info: Hyaluronic Acid in skincare and Polyhydroxy Acids in skincare)
Ingredients of the Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptides Rapid Plumping Serum
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.
Okay, let’s look at the peptides first: There is Copper Tripeptide-1, which has shown promising results in increased wound healing and stimulation of collagen and elastin production in vitro, then there is Tetrapeptide-30, lightening hyperpigmentation according to manufacturer studies and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, claiming to relax muscles when topically applied for an effect similar to Botox, but much less effective obviously.
Then there are antioxidants, Green Tea and Turmeric Root Extract, Panthenol for antiinflammatory properties and lastly Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate as humectants and Squalane as emollient working on most skin types.
Overall it looks like a really nice formula to address different concerns in aging skin, but please note that I can’t say how much Copper Tripeptide-1 is actually in the formula, as they, opposed to the DECIEM offers, do not disclose the percentage on the website.
Does it live up to its claims?
I don’t find it to be particularly hydrating. To be honest I didn’t notice a difference in my skin’s hydration whether I used it or not, and if my skin felt particularly dehydrated, this for sure was not enough.
When I think of it not as a hydrating, but as a Copper Peptide Serum though, I like it a lot more, as it offers a few interesting peptides to target different areas of concern.
How does it compare to…
NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1
NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (30 ml for 76 €, vegan) contains different peptides to accompany the Copper Tripeptide-1, all of which focus on collagen stimulation, and no Copper PCA, which is why I ironically find it more hydrating. It has a deeper blue color and is more expensive per ml.
The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1%
The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% (30 ml for 31 €) again has different peptides to go with the 1% Copper Peptide they all share, and they again claim to do slightly different things than the ones in the other two. The main difference though is the texture, The Ordinary’s version is much oilier than the other two and probably best suited to dry skins. It is also the most affordable one, but not that different from the one from Biossance if you go by ml.
Would I repurchase and which skin types do I recommend the Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptides Rapid Plumping Serum to?
Now I have fallen heavily for the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 and it’s heavenly texture, but if I hadn’t I would actually prefer the version from Biossance over The Ordinary Buffet + Copper peptides, simply because it applies so much more beautiful and isn’t much more expensive. If your skin is dry and you need hydration, it might not be your first pick, but for normal, combination or oily skins that are looking to incorporate Copper Peptides in their routine, this is actually a lovely option.
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