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Peptides, Growth Factors, and so-called ‘Drone Delivery’—Medik8’s reformulated Liquid Peptides Advanced MP promises firmer, plumper skin with cutting-edge technology. But does it actually improve collagen production and fine lines, or is this just an expensive marketing upgrade?
As always, let’s look at the science, the texture, and whether it’s worth your money.
What the Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP Serum claims
Liquid Peptides Advanced MP’s breakthrough bio-technology: Dual MiniProteins™ redefines wrinkle reduction. Clinically proven to diminish the appearance of expression lines in 10 minutes & deep-set wrinkle reduction in 8 weeks,[1] this pioneering serum combines pharmaceutical-grade precision with powerful peptide science.
Delivering a filler-like effect on the look of wrinkles,[2] our latest innovation targets the formation of wrinkles at their cellular source. Expression Line MiniProtein™ helps to relax & smooth dynamic expression lines for visibly reduced wrinkle depth. Growth Factor MiniProtein™ visibly improves the appearance of skin structure by helping to support collagen, elastin & hyaluronic acid levels, for smoother, firmer-looking skin in every drop.
[1] Proven via independent clinical study on Liquid Peptides Advanced MP tested on 34 participants at 10 minutes & 8 weeks
[2] Proven via independent consumer study on Liquid Peptides Advanced MP conducted over 8 weeks on 91 participants.
Facts about the Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP Serum
Prize and size
The black bottle comes with a pump and contains 30 ml, available for 100 € on the website here. It is free from fragrance or essential oils and vegan.
Texture and scent
Like many fragrance free products there is a faint scent you’ll notice when you sniff it, something a little nutty and warm, but very faint. The serum itself is milky white and quite runny, which makes it easy to spread on the skin and very lightweight, so great for layering. (More info: Is fragrance in your skincare bad for you?)
I did experience minimal tackiness for about a minute after application, but after that Liquid Peptides Advanced MP had completely absorbed, leaving the skin feeling very smooth.
How to use the Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP Serum
Growth Factors are supposed to go on clean skin, so the best time for application is directly after cleansing. (More info: The benefits of Growth Factors in skincare explained)
It can be used both morning and night. I used it mainly at night because that is what fit my routine best, but wanted to mention that for the wrinkle reduction reported in their consumer studies after eight weeks, the serum was used twice a day. Now I don’t think more is more here and would suspect using it once a day should be enough, but if you want to replicate the effect done in the studies, you should of course follow their protocol.
According to the brand, the serum is safe to layer with both exfoliating acids – here you should exfoliate first and use the serum afterwards – as well as with retinoids, making it suitable for wherever in your routine you want to put it. (More info: The benefits of acids in skincare explained and The benefits of retinoids in skincare explained)
They also did a consumer study testing its use alongside injectables, so it is safe to use with fillers and Botox, apparently even showing self perceived improvements in how the skin looks then. But, something I really appreciate, they don’t sell it as alternative to injectables as some “Botox in a bottle”-brands do, just as supporting act and weaker alternative for those that don’t want in office procedures.
What are Dual Mini Peptides?
Let me quickly say a few words about amino acids, peptides and proteins first, so you better understand what the “Dual Mini Proteins” are Medik8 has as new breakthrough ingredient:
Aminoacids are organic compounds with a Carboxyl and an Amino-Group in their structure. That isn’t important here though, more important is that they are very small and used as building blocks in the body. Several amino acids linked make a Peptide chain, with the function of the peptide being determined by the type and the order in which the amino acids are combined and are, obviously as they are linked amino acids, bigger than amino acids. Peptides have several different functions in the body: They act as signalling molecule for different processes for example, telling cells what to do more or less of. They are also the building blocks of proteins.
Now proteins are both the building blocks of structures in the human body – they are part of your cells, your muscles, your skin, your hair – but they also form enzymes, antibodies and hormones, making them absolutely essential for a functioning human body. In the form of enzymes the catalyse many important processes related to collagen production or formation of pigmentation for example, making them interesting in skincare as well as in overall health.
Problem is: They are the biggest of the three and when it comes to topical products, size does matter for penetration.
This is where the Mini Proteins come in, which are, according to Medik8, sitting in the middle between peptides and proteins in size, combining the better penetration of peptides with the bigger impact of proteins. Now Mini Proteins are an interesting topic of research in Medicinal chemistry, but this is the first time I have heard them mentioned in context of skincare, which is why I can’t give you any information on how they perform for the purpose of firmer skin. All I can say is that they are a thing, not only a marketing term, and have already been used in nasal sprays aiming to prevent SARS-CoV-2 infections in humans for example.
Ingredients of the Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP Serum
sii|h 0 0, Dimethicone emo 0 1, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Butylene Glycol h|solv 0 1, Undecane emo, Arginine 
sii, Inulin , Microcrystalline Cellulose vc, Ceteareth-20 emu|surf 3 2, Tridecane perf, Tocopherol aox 0–3 0–3, Hydroxyacetophenone aox, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 cci, Panthenol so|h 0 0, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 cci, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 vc, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 cci, Pullulan, Tetrapeptide-21 cci, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 cci, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate vc, Glyceryl Linoleate emo|emu, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 cci|h, Pentapeptide-18 cci, Oligopeptide-1, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Sucrose Palmitate emo|emu|surf, Cetyl Palmitate emo 0 0, Phenoxyethanol pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Carbomer vc 0 1, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 cci, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate cci, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Polysorbate 80 emu|surf 0 0, Sorbitan Stearate emu 1 0, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Carnosine aox|cci, Sodium Metabisulfite aox|pres, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil emo 0 0, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer vc, Sodium Benzoate pres, Hydrogenated Lecithin emo|emu, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Pantolactone h, Xanthan Gum vc, Disodium EDTA chel, T-Butyl Alcohol perf|solv, Potassium Sorbate pres, Citric Acid buff, Glyceryl Caprylate pres, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol vc, Phenylpropanol perf|solvHover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.
Now that we have established what Dual Mini Proteins are, here is what Medik8 uses: a combination of two mini proteins called Expression Line MiniProtein™ to relax the muscles and soften expression lines (like Argireline, the peptide claims to do) and Growth Factor MiniProtein™ to help stimulate collagen, elastin and Hyaluronic Acid production (like, well, Growth Factors).
They also use their 30% Multi Peptide Complex, a proprietary blend of 13 different peptides including copper peptides to target different signs of aging. Peptides are an umbrella term, meaning they can do different things: improve hydration, stimulate collagen, affect hyperpigmentation, basically everything you might need for healthy looking skin, so having different ones combined in one product is helpful. Unless you prefer combining different serums individually, which is of course fine as well.
Here is where we need to talk about “Drone delivery” and what it means in skincare: Peptides often have a hard time getting into the skin due to size and polarity, and as they are targeted signalling molecules, they ideally not just get into the skin, but to a very specific structure there. To help with that, the peptides get encapsulated in a sort of shell that both helps them penetrate unharmed and leads them to their ideal destination due to specific markers on the outer layer of this shell – here the copper peptides are directed to the fibroblasts where they are supposed to help stimulate collagen production.
When you look at the ingredient list, you’ll see that it contains a multitude of peptides and amino acid belonging to these two ingredient complexes. On top of that there are Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate and a few sugars as humectants, Panthenol for soothing and skin identical lipids. It also contains Dimethicone, probably responsible for the smooth feeling on the skin. (More info: The benefits of Hyaluronic Acid in skincare explained and The benefits of Panthenol in skincare explained)
The main focus in all that is how ever the variety of peptides.
More info: How to read the ingredient list in your skincare products.
Does it live up to its claims?
Mostly yes.
It has clinical studies to back up its claims and it is hydrating and plumping, giving a sort term beneficial effect on the skins appearance. If there is a long term effect is impossible to say without objective measurements, but it ceratinly has ingredients that would support that claim.
How does it compare to…
NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3
I have been using different peptide serums for several years now, and so far the NIOD Copper Peptides were my favorite in terms of texture. I like Copper Peptides alongside other better studied ones like Matrixyl in my routine, and this serum was lightweight enough to use all round.
Medik8 offers a blend of peptides including Copper Peptides and their Dual Mini Proteins (out of which I still don’t know if they will move the needle visibly), so offers more for a higher price, but with the same lovely texture. Which one will earn a permanent place in my routine is yet to determine, both are lovely and very expensive.
You can read my full review of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum here.
The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides
There is always a budget alternative (not dupe!) if you want comparable results for a much lower price. The Ordinary have their Buffet Serum, combining different peptides in a version with added copper peptides. It is much more affordable than the Medik8 version, but also has a texture that didn’t agree with my skin as well. It is more oily and felt heavier. That didn’T stop me from using it several years though, so you don’t want to spend as much, it is a good alternative.
You can read my full review of The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides here.
Would I repurchase and which skin types do I recommend it to?
Yes, the Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP Serum is very expensive – 100 € for 30 ml is a lot. And no, it did not magically make my deep wrinkles disappear within the two months I have been using it. But still it has quickly become a favourite of mine. It has a beautiful lightweight texture that offers some hydration – less than a moisturiser, but enough to plump up the skin, which in combination with the Dimethicone will smoothen fine lines. The peptide complex used reads like the Who is Who of peptides targeting signs of aging and both the drone delivery as well as the Dual Mini Peptides used are an interesting development. Interesting, not groundbreaking, proven scientific discoveries that will change the way we do skincare, but great for someone that likes to step up their basics with more experimental stuff.
On the background of Medik8 being a brand that does their own studies, trying to integrate new things int their product development, for me the price is justified. You will always pay more for those putting in the work than you will for those copying the results once they are established.
I am aware though that this is more than most people have in their budget for skincare, so let me assure you: If you don’t spend that much, you will not miss out: There are other very nice peptide serums out there for a fraction of the price, and if drone delivery and mini peptides will make an actual visible difference in how we age over the course of ten years… Certainly less than using sunscreen regularly will.
Still, I am in love.
Shop Medik8 here
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