ADVERTISEMENT INFO: SOME PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN THIS POST ARE PR (GIFTED) AND LINKS USED ARE AFFILIATE LINKS. I RECEIVED NO MONEY TO WRITE THE BLOGPOST. PLEASE READ DISCLAIMER

 

Fall is here with all its good sides like turning leaves and crisp mornings and all the downside like the constant struggle if you will turn on indoor heating in an attempt to stay cozy or hold on a little longer to save some money. It also means that it is time to change up my skincare routine. If you’ve been around here for a while, you know that I don’t do major changes. My skincare philosophy is that you identify your main concerns – for me, this is year round adult acne and well-aging – and then one maybe two more that you change up your routine for, which in my case is hyperpigmentation.

 

 

Because I love being outdoors. I love hiking. I love swimming. I love sitting outdoors, reading a good book, chatting with friends, all that stuff. And I’ve done it extensively in summer. And no amount of sun protection will ever be enough to prevent the dark spots I already have from very careless sun exposure in my early days like the first 20 25 years of my life from reappearing. So this is my updated fall skincare routine, morning and night, and a little explanation how you should adapt your skincare routine if fighting hyperpigmentation is your main concern.

 

 

How do you best target hyperpigmentation with your skincare routine?

Treating hyperpigmentation is a multi-step approach as the development of hyperpigmentation has different phases.

Step one is obviously triggering hyperpigmentation, which is in most cases caused by sun exposure or UV light. That triggers melanin production, brings the melanocytes to migrate into certain areas and clump together forming these spots. Another trigger could also be inflammation. Usually there is a genetic disposition for that, it is more common in people with a deeper or more melanated skin, but can also appear in others. (More info: The different types of hyperpigmentation explained)

Step two is melanin production. Melanocytes are activated and they start producing melanin via an enzymatic pathway, like factories gearing up for production.

Step three is packaging the melanin. The melanocytes produce melanin, and this melanin needs to be packaged in small vesicles or bubbles that transport the melanin to their recipients, the cell that waits for it for protection. These packing bubbles are called melanosomes.

Step four is the actual distribution of packed up melanosomes to the cells. The parcel leaves the factory and goes to the recipient.

And step five is when the melanin has arrived in the cells and the cell has included it to protect its DNA. This is the step where you can only get rid of the whole cell, because once it’s in there it’s done.

While all five steps can be targeted, the first one, preventing the trigger, is obviously the most important. And it also makes more sense to target every step in this five-step process than to use five things that target exclusively step two and ignore the others.

 

 

My morning skincare routine

 

 

My mornings start with a quick microcurrent routine. I like the lifting and plumping effect it gives my skin, but I don’t really see a long-term effect. Still, it helps me accept that the thing looking at me from the mirror is really myself because it brings back some of the definition I am used to. The one I am using is the ZIIP Halo (full review here), but any reputable microcurrent device will do.

What I like with this one are the short, preloaded program it contains and that it’s easy to grab – it’s not too heavy.

 

 

After I’ve done that, I cleanse my face to get rid of the gel. At the moment I use The Inkey List Fulvic Acid Brightening Cleanser (full review here). Don’t be fooled by the name, it has brightening in there, but I don’t think it does anything to combat hyperpigmentation. Fulvic acid is not an exfoliating acid, and I don’t really think it does much anyway, I never understood why The Inkey List put that as the name giving ingredient.

The only thing it does contain that will target hyperpigmentation is Licorice Root Extract (More info: The benefits of Licorice Root Extract in skincare explained). Don’t get me wrong, Licorice Root Extract has some good data. But even if it had the right concentration, which I don’t know, I just know that it’s in there, I don’t think it would have the maximum effect in a wash-off product. Why do I use the cleanser? Because it’s not stripping. I like the texture and because it’s open and I need to finish some things. (More info: The 10 best ingredients to target hyperpigmentation)

 

 

The next thing I use is my vitamin C: the Geek and Gorgeous C-Glow Serum (full review here) one. I’ve been using it for years, it’s my favorite and you’re probably sick of hearing about it. The L-Ascorbic Acid has two effects: One, it inhibits Tyrosinase or the production of melanin. And two, it bursts the melanosomes, meaning it targets both step two and step three. It also is an antioxidant and helps stimulate collagen production. (More info: The benefits of Vitamin C in your skincare explained)

 

 

Then, this is an altered step compared to summer, I’ll exfoliate three times a week. I use Salicylic acid, which you might say is anti-inflammatory and might help with step one, preventing the trigger, but I mainly use it to combat congestion so I don’t get breakouts. I use the Balea Beauty Expert Liquid Peeling (full review here), which I like, but I much prefer the Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant (full review here) one that I usually use, but I ran out of it and haven’t repurchased yet. Balea Beauty Expert is a fraction of the price. Works just as well, but has a texture I don’t like as much.

And then twice a week, I use glycolic acid. The one I’m currently using is the Geek and Gorgeous Smooth Out (full review coming soon). It has a higher strength of glycolic acid than the one I used over summer, so I can only use it twice a week. The AHAs are responsible for helping the dead skin cells slough off, meaning they help increase cell turnover and get rid of the cells that have the melanin inside that was triggered during summer.

 

 

Then I use an eye cream, not because you have to, but because I have it and I want to finish it. And because I feel like my eyes at my age need all the hydration they can get so they don’t have deep set wrinkles in which my concealer starts to pool. The one I’m using is the Face Theory Ocuwake Pro (full review here). It has been repackaged since I reviewed it, so you won’t find this exact one on the homepage. While it is nice, anything that’s hydrating will do. (More info: Are eye creams just a waste of money?)

 

 

And because my skin is quite dehydrated right now, which is not a good look, no matter the time of year, I use a separate lightweight moisturizer. The one I am currently using is the Skin1004 Tone Brightening Capsule Cream (full review coming soon). It has different ingredients that target hyperpigmentation and is very lightweight, yet hydrating. There is Niacinamide, which hinders the distribution of the packed up melanosomes, so step four, and it contains Tranexamic Acid. Now there is very good data on oral or intravenous tranexamic acid, but basically nothing that convinces me on topical application, so I don’t usually actively seek it out. But if it’s in a product that I use anyway, I’m not complaining. (More info: The benefits of Tranexamic Acid in skincare explained)

 

 

And then the last step is of course sunscreen. The Skin1004 Hyalu Cica Water Fit Sun Serum SPF 50+ (full review here). This is one of the products I call office sunscreen because it’s very cosmetically elegant and very lightweight. Hydrating, but not too hydrating, works well under makeup and I forget I’m wearing anything on my face after application. And it of course targets step one, preventing the trigger.

As you can see, I have all the five steps targeted in my morning routine. Trigger, production, packing up, distribution, and getting rid of the melanated cells.

 

 

My evening skincare routine – the part that stays the same

 

 

I obviously start with removing all the sweat, makeup, dirt, pollution that has accumulated on my face overnight. That isn’t really a step regarding hyperpigmentation – although you could argue that pollution on the skin leads to inflammation and that might make things worse – but it should be common sense to cleanse your face at night. (More info: What pollution does to your skin) Right now I use the SKIN1004 Centella Light Cleansing Oil (full review here). I like it because it’s lightweight, it breaks down my makeup, emulsifies easily and doesn’t leave a film on my skin, but what you use is personal preference. It doesn’t have a dedicated ingredient why you should use it if you want to target hyperpigmentation.

 

 

I don’t always double cleanse, especially during fall. With wind and indoor heating my skin tends to be a little dehydrated, so I reserve Double Cleansing for the days when I feel I need it. On the days I did a  sweaty workout in a full face of makeup for example. (More info: Is Double Cleansing good for you? and The best skincare routine for working out) If I Double Cleanse, I prefer a more hydrating cleanser, and the one I’m currently using is The Inkey List Hydrating Cream to Milk Cleanser (full review coming soon). I am still testing it, but what I can already say is that I wouldn’t recommend it to remove your makeup – it doesn’t do that very well and it stings the eyes – but like it as second or morning cleanse.

 

 

After cleansing I use my LED face mask, the Currentbody Series 2 LED Face Mask (full review here) I don’t use it specifically to target hyperpigmentation. I know they have it in their claims, but I am just not that convinced that this is what they are best for. I use it mainly for collagen production stimulation and to relax, and I am for five nights a week year round.

 

 

After the mask I use a lightweight layer of hydration, the same I used during summer: Skin1004 Centella Asiatica Ampoule (full review here). It absorbs easily, but isn’t extremely hydrating, so I think I will move on to something more substantial when it gets colder. Again, this is not a step to specifically target hyperpigmentation, just part of my regular routine.

 

 

The eye cream I use at night is the Banish Instant Lift Brightening Eye Cream (full review here). Despite the brightening it carries in the name, I don’t use it to treat dark circles. There are different reasons why your undereyes look dark, and I don’t have hyperpigmentation around the eyes that would react to skincare. If you do though, the eye creams contains some peptides that claim to help with that. The dark circles I get are a lack of sleep, and no amount of eye cream will ever be able to fix that. I guess I need to work on that myself… (More info: What really helps with dark circles under the eyes?) I like this eye cream because it is rich in texture without feeling greasy or giving me milia.

And then my routine differs if it’s a Tretinoin or a Non-Tretinoin night.

 

Evening skincare routine for Tretinoin Nights

 

 

I use my Tretinoin every other night, that is the sweet spot for me with minimal irritation and maximum effect. And no, despite what you have read online, you don’t need to use it every night to see results. (More info: The best way to use Tretinoin with minimal irritation) To prepare for it, I follow up the SKIN1004 Centella Asiatica Ampoule with a layer of Murad Nutrient-Charged Water Gel (full review here). It is like a pink cloud texture, which shouldn’t really matter, but somehow still does. Despite being called „water gel“, it is more substantial than you would expect. It has a lot of ceramides, a lot of humectants and also Niacinamide. Niacinamide is the only thing here that actively targets hyperpigmentation through hindering distribution or Step Four. The ceramides help with skin barrier repair, which doesn’t hurt if like me you’re using Tretinoin. (More info: The benefits of Ceramides in skincare explained, The benefits of Niacinamide in skincare explained and Are we overdoing it with barrier repair?)

And after that is absorbed, I follow up with Tretinoin, which I use mainly for my adult acne and for well aging. Tretinoin does a little bit of everything when it comes to targeting hyperpigmentation, but nothing very outstanding, so I wouldn’t necessarily call it a hyperpigmentation treatment. That means when you look at my nighttime skincare routine, there isn’t that much in my Tretinoin nights specifically aiming to improve my hyperpigmentation – that is mainly reserved for the morning routine.

 

 

If it is a non- Tretinoin night I do all the same steps until I reach the Centella Asiatica Ampoule and then I follow up with the Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP (full review here). These are again mainly for well aging and not for hyperpigmentation, although they do have in their 30% multipeptide complex a few peptides that claim to specifically target hyperpigmentation. If that is actually moving the needle? For me, it’s like the Tranexamic Acid in my morning routine: A nice bonus, not something I actively incorporate to target hyperpigmentation.

 

 

Something that is specifically used for hyperpigmentation though is The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum (full review here). Arbutin is like the weaker cousin of hydroquinone – and no, there’s no need to be afraid of hydroquinone when used under doctor’s guidance, it’s really a good ingredient. Hydroquinone just isn’t something I feel I need the way my skin looks, so, I use Arbutin instead. (More info: The benefits of Hydroquinone in skincare explained and The benefits of Arbutin in skincare explained) Arbutin has less irritation potential, but is also less effective than Hydroquinone, but just like that one targets Step Two, production, by inhibiting Tyrosinase. It is supposed to be more potent than Vitamin C in doing that. The serum also has Squalane in the ingredient list, which means that if your skin is more on the oily side it could work as a moisturizer for you. For me that isn’t the case, which is why I follow up with the Murad Nutrient Charged Water Gel I mentioned before already.

And that is everything I use right now. Might sound a lot and is certainly more extensive than my summer skincare routine, but still not overwhelming and pretty quick to do – the devices will take the longest to use.

 

My skincare philosophy

I’m a huge advocate of not changing too much in your routine. Instead I suggest building a routine that covers your basic concerns and stays pretty much the same year round. Then, if you want to, you can add minor tweaks as in richer formulas or targeted products when the season change without overhauling everything completely. Otherwise, you’ll just get your skin massively confused and will more likely harm your skin and your wallet in the process.

 

 

Shop my morning and evening routine here

 

Don’t forget to check out the Discount Code Page on top if you want to save some money on your next skincare purchase, or click here to let me build a personalized skincare routine for you.
If you want to get more involved and pick my next topics or see exclusive behind the scenes content, don’t forget you can head over here and become a YouTube Channel Member!