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NovoRetin, called the plant-based retinol alternative by its manufacturers, has gained a lot of interest, especially since The Inkey List released their SuperSolutions Acne Clearing Moisturizer featuring 2% NovoRetin. About time we take a closer look!

 

 

What is Novoretin? How does it work in the skin? What are the benefits and side effects and how does NovoRetin compare to Retinol?

If you have questions I didn’t answer, pop them in the comments below, but without further ado, let’s dive straight in!

 

 

 

What is NovoRetin?

NovoRetin is an ingredient derived from mastic, an aromatic resin from the bark of trees that grow exclusively on the Greek island of Chios.

Apparently this resin has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and skincare. This mastic tree or lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus) is an evergreen shrub that grows under harsh circumstances, so without much water or nutrient rich soil, and is pretty common in areas of this climate. Only the mastic trees of southern Chios though give the typical resin when the bark is scratched. This is probably due to the kind of soil there and the especially warm and dry weather conditions.

Obviously the bark undergoes several processing steps until you get the finished ingredient put in skincare products.

 

 

How NovoRetin works in the skin

The mechanism of how Novoretin is supposed to work is really interesting and different to retinoids. You know that Retinoic Acid is naturally present in our skin and affects cell turnover and collagen production.

To target different skin concerns like premature aging or acne, Retinoids are applied to the skin topically, with Retinoids being the umbrella term for a class of substances including Retinol, the most common one in skincare. (More info: Your comprehensive guide to retinoids) The mechanism here is that these substances are applied, absorbed into the skin and then, through enzymatic conversion, turn into Retinoic Acid. Basically you have the Retinoic Acid you’d have naturally and then add some additional one from external.

NovoRetin on the other hand is NOT converted into Retinoic Acid, but instead inhibits the CYP26 enzymes whose job it is to deactivate the Retinoic Acid you naturally have. You see, the body balances itself – it produces something that is supposed to do something, Retinoic Acid in this case, but at the same time establishes a mechanism by which this substance gets deactivated again, in this case the CYP26 enzymes. If these mechanisms weren’t in place, you’d at some point have too much Retinoic Acid because it is constantly produced, but not eliminated.

So technically NovoRetin and Retinoids have the same outcome, more Retinoic Acid in the skin, but reach it via different pathways. Retinoids by adding extra via creams, NovoRetin by inhibiting deactivation.

 

 

Which benefits does NovoRetin on the skin?

According to the manufacturer, NovoRetin has several benefits, out of which two are similar to the benefits shown in Retinoids:

First effects on skin aging through the increase in skin density and elasticity, as well as a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. The second is an effect on acne through reduction of congestion and formation of microcysts.

What it does on top of that, and that is different to retinoids, is that it apparently increases the moisture in the skin.

Now I do sing the praise of retinoids frequently, but even I wouldn’t call them hydrating – especially not in the beginning when you might go through retinization. (More info: How to use Retin-A with minimal irritation) Maybe, in theory, over the course of prolonged treatment the improved structure in the skin could lead to better moisture retention, but quite frankly, it isn’t something you’ll hear as Retinoid benefits.

And if the end point of NovoRetin is the same, more Retinoic Acid, why is the effect here so different?

 

 

Is there data on the effects of NovoRetin in the skin?

While there are studies done on the claimed benefist and mechanism of action, they aren’t publicly available. I contacted the manufacturer to see if they could provide me with more information and they sent over two advertorials mentioning the studies done, but without seeing the full study I am not able to comment on quality.

I mentioned before that the theoretical mechanism of action of NovoRetin is by inhibiting CYP26 enzymes, and in vitro studies, meaning studies done on cells in a petri dish or skin models, have shown that NovoRetin decreases the activity and gene expression of these enzymes.

Studies done on actual people using a 2% NovoRetin for 18 days showed a 20.4% increase in skin elasticity and a 13.8% increase in skin density, with consistent use a reduction in wrinkle depth by 14% and length by 13.7%. Again, I don’t have the original publication, so I can’t comment on baseline, other potential influences or design – what I can say from a very personal point though is that an effect that big in such a short time is astonishing, especially as there were barely any side effects. With prescription Tretinoin you need a much longer time to see results, not to mention the side effects that can be quite challenging.

It is important to keep in mind that you can interpret data in many different ways to get the result you want, so without the background information available, don’t take these numbers as gospel.

 

 

So how about the NovoRetin Side Effects?

Again according to the manufacturer data, NovoRetin is generally well-tolerated, with fewer reported side effects compared to traditional retinoids. As sensitivities and potential allergies are always possible, it is advised to patch test anyway, but in general NovoRetin seems to be free from the side effects often associated with using Retinoids, which is irritation, flaking and dryness. (More info: The five steps you need to take to repair your damaged skin barrier)

I know I repeat myself, but can’t help but wonder why if the end point is the same, more Retinoic Acid in the skin, and the side effects of Retinoids are due to the Retinoic Acid effects and not due to the cream in itself, the side effects are so much different.

 

 

What are the potential advantages of NovoRetin vs. Retinoids?

How does Novoretin compare to Retinol? Based on the data provided by the manufacturer, NovoRetin is less likely to cause the dryness and irritation often associated with retinoids. The reduced risk of irritation would also make it a good choice for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin.

Another advantage in regards to formulation seems to be that NovoRetin is more stable, so is easier to formulate with.

The disadvantage worth mentioning is that compared to retinoids, there is much less good data on the actual effects on skin aging.

 

 

NovoRetin in Pregnancy

You might know that it is consensus to not use retinoids when you are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is a very cautios approach based on potential harm for the unborn when taking Roaccutane orally and not on observations from topical application – you probably get more Vitamin A from eating carrots than from applying a topical retinol product, but nonetheless it is the general recommendation. (More info: Which skincare can you use during pregnancy?)

NovoRetin has not been specifically tested on pregnant people to determin its safety – which isn’t unexpected, most pregnant persons are excluded from human trials – so right now, assuming the end point of NovoRetin is the same as it is for retinoids, I would apply the same principles here: If you wouldn’t use retinoids in pregnancy, you probably shouldn’t use NovoRetin either.

 

 

How to incorporate NovoRetin into your Skincare Routine

In theory, NovoRetin can be part of different formulations, think serum, cream or even face masks. To my knowledge the products available are either a cream, the already mentioned The Inkey List SuperSolutions Acne Clearing Moisturizer, or as serum, the Trilogy Vitamin C + Super Serum, both pairing 2% NovoRetin with some form of Vitamin C. (More info: The benefits of Vitamin C in skincare explained) From what I can tell, a 2% concentration is what you should look for in a product, as that is what was used in the studies.

Even though side effects are supposed to be minimal, I would start slowly with every other or even every throd night, slowly building up over the course of six weeks, and would avoid pairing it with other potentially irritating products. (More info: Which skincare can you combine with Retinol?)

 

TL;DR

NovoRetin, a plant-based retinol alternative derived from mastic resin, has generated interest due to its promise of retinol-like benefits without the common side effects. It is supposed to work by inhibiting enzymes that deactivate natural retinoic acid, thereby enhancing retinoic acid effects like cell turnover and collagen production. NovoRetin claims to improve skin density, elasticity, and moisture while reducing wrinkles and acne. However, the lack of comprehensive public studies raises questions about these claims. Despite being marketed as less irritating and more stable than retinol, NovoRetin products, like The Inkey List’s moisturizer and Trilogy’s serum, should be introduced gradually to minimize irritation. While promising, in my opinion more data is needed to fully validate NovoRetin’s efficacy compared to established retinoids.

P.S. Don’t forget to share your experiences with NovoRetin in the comments below. I’m always eager to hear about your skincare journeys!

 

 

Shop NovoRetin skincare here

 

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