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Is someone really injecting salmon sperm into their face? As odd as it may sound,  both yes — and no, not literally. The treatment often called a „salmon sperm facial“ refers to PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, a fragment of DNA extracted from fish sperm, typically from rainbow trout or chum salmon. Despite its slightly shocking nickname, this ingredient is highly processed and purified before use. What’s left is not sperm, but small DNA molecules that claim skin-rejuvenating properties.

 

 

Apparently it does it all: restore glow, smooth wrinkles, firm the skin, and erase hyperpigmentation. But how much of that is supported by science and how much is just another hype in a syringe?

Let’s break it down.

 

 

What is PDRN and how does it work in the skin?

PDRN is a low molecular weight DNA fragment that once was extracted from human placenta, but now comes from fish sperm that has been highly processed and purified after extraction. PDRN (or polydeoxyribonucleotide spelled out) has been used in medicine for years, primarily in tissue regeneration research where it has shown promising results in the treatment of diabetic ulcers on the feet when injected directly into the lesions.

A possible explanation for that is its interaction with specific receptors in our body, most notably the A2A or adenosine receptors. These receptors, when activated, can stimulate fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen and elastin), boost vascular endothelial growth factor (promoting new blood vessels), and modulate inflammation by reducing oxidative stress caused by free radicals.

Another potential mechanism of action would be that, since PDRN is essentially a fragmented DNA molecule, it provides the skin with extra building blocks for repairing its own DNA. Our DNA is damaged by everything we do: the foods we eat, UV exposure, pollution and basically just living out lives. (More info: Glycation and its effect on the skin and Do you need antipollution skincare?)

 

 

Are there different types of PDRN you can get?

PDRN injections, which is what you see when you hear about the „Skin Boosters“ used, are only approved in certain parts of the world: South Korea, Singapore and Germany to name a few. But not in the US, at least not as injectables. What you can get there (and basically anywhere else you can hop online) are topical products featuring PDRN, the Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum (30 ml for 14 €, available here) for example, or the innisfree Retinol Green Tea Booster (25 ml for 26 €, available here). Now obviously injections and topicals are quite different in how they get into the skin to work, and judging by the size of the molecules, I (and people much more knowledgeable than me on this subject) have a hard time believing they are able to penetrate the skin to get where they need to go.

Do we have data? Yes, but only a little and low in quality, and even there the results aren’t clear. Yes, topical application does show some benefits in the skins appearance, but if they go beyond what regular moisturizers would offer is up for discussion.

 

 

How about vegan and plant based alternatives?

Something made from fish sperm is clearly not vegan, and as vegan and cruelty-free are important selling points, it was only a matter of time until companies started offering plant-based alternatives. They range from molecules taken from plants that according to their manufacturers „mimic the effects“ to products of fermentation. (More info: The benefits of fermented ingredients in skincare explained) They do receive a lot of hype around the internet, but if you ask me, that hype isn’t justified – yet. Aside from manufacturer claims we have no comparing studies telling us if they work even remotely similar in the skin. The tissue repairing and healing effects shown in the data are unique to PDRN, with other DNA derived products not showing the same benefit, so you can’t just assume that it will work.

A different story are molecules made in the lab that are build after identifying what exactly triggers the healing response in PDRN injectables. These would be promising and might become a valuable alternative to those that want to avoid animal products.

 

 

Is PDRN safe?

Anything you have injected comes with a specific set of risks. Risk of infection for example, risk of bleeding, risk of swelling or bruising, all that is a possibility whenever the skin barrier is penetrated. Other than that though, PDRN is generally considered safe, and in none of the studies we have concerns regarding safety were raised. The structural similarity to human DNA seems to lower the risk for an allergic reaction, especially as it is purified and processed during production.

Again, you need to bare in mind that despite that it isn’t approved for injections in many parts of the world, so if you are offered it there, it might come with a whole different set of risks – I mean, if you find someone willing to inject substances in your face that aren’t approved, imagine what else that person is willing to do to maximise their profits?

Topical application comes without the risk injections have (unless it is paired with microneedling to enhance penetration of course, then the risks of microneedling need to be taken into consideration) so you can generally consider it safe to use. According to current knowledge, topical PDRN can be paired with everything else in your skincare routine and is also safe to use in pregnancy and breastfeeding.

 

 

Who is PDRN best for?

When you look at the claims, PDRN treatments will basically do everything for everyone (a huge red flag, if you ask me). It will help with:

• dull skin
• dehydrated skin
• wrinkles and fine lines
• acne scars
• pigmentation
• skin sensitivity
• redness

These claims are in parts explained by the mechanism of action we assume it has – stimulation of fibroblasts for example will help with wrinkles, fine lines and maybe even acne scars. If the effect is as strong as it is in your retinoids for example, or if it is superior to other injectables improving skin hydration in the long run is something we still can’t say.

In general I would say that it isn’t for the young ones out there, and that I wouldn’t use it for prevention. It is more suited for those of us that, like me, reach the end of their 40s and beyond. For those that have a good routine already, that use their SPF, their retinoid (if they can tolerate it), maybe even their antioxidants, and that now are willing to experiment a little. Because that is where this belongs: in the experimental skincare bracket that might do good and will not do harm so that the main risk is for your wallet, not your health. If you decide to give it a go, it might involve travel to another country and certainly a few expenses, so having disposable income to spend on that is also important. Another argument why it probably isn’t for the young ones.

 

 

What is the difference between PDRN and fillers?

Now you might wonder if PDRN injectables and other fillers are the same in terms of effect, if it is enough to get either one or the other or if you should actually consider getting both. But while both are injected by a professional (at least I very much hope that is who you trist your face with!), they differ quite a bit in how they work and the effect you can expect.

Fillers are usually used to replace or add volume to certain parts of the face. That can either be to achieve more plumpness that is often associated with a youthful appearance, or, when injected at strategically chosen points of the face, to lift the skin up again where it started sagging. The results are usually instant, give or take a few days when swelling or bruising might influence how it looks, and they last for as long as the filler lasts, which depends on the substance used, the placement and other, more individual factors. They will usually not give you long term benefits – when they are gone, you are back to the starting point.

PDRN injections on the other hand are supposed to improve skin quality in the long run, which means you often don’t really see anything for the first two weeks after getting them. There is no instant volume or lifting effect, only changes that are supposed to happen gradually. That also means that they don’t „wear off“ like fillers do – they don’t stop the natural aging process, but take your skin a few steps back on the route it already took (at least in theory – again, data is limited). And unlike fillers, that attentive friends might notice, you don’t really see that there was something done once potential bruising has subsided.

 

 

Would I get PDRN injections?

Right now, I am not considering getting any injections in my face, which includes Botox, fillers and also PDRN. That doesn’t mean I would never, I might change my mind on that in the future. At the age of 46, it would be delusional to expect my face to stay unchanged only from using topical skincare.

If I was considering injections though, I think I would rather get PDRN than regular fillers. Not because the data is better, quite on the contrary. No, mainly because the thought of a subtle improvement over time intrigues me more than risking a changed face shape.

Before I would do that though, I would double check that my routine has the basics right: sunscreen, retinoid and all the boring lifestyle factors that influence skins appearance as well – balanced diet, regular exercise and a good sleep routine. Then, and only then, I would visit a doctors office for an in person consultation here in Germany. Or, if I were based in the US, would consider traveling to have it done.

 

 

TL;DR

To wrap up: Do you need PDRN? Probably not.
Is it interesting? Absolutely.
Could it one day become a proven option in skin rejuvenation? Possibly — if future studies provide stronger evidence.
Despite what different websites tell you, there is no proof that vegan or plant based alternatives work the same way, and PDRN skincare is NOT the same as getting injections.
Proceed with caution, avoid illegal or unregulated providers, and never — I repeat, never — inject anything into your face you bought off the internet.

Would you travel abroad for an experimental skincare treatment? Let me know in the comments — I’d love to hear your thoughts.

 

Examples for topical skincare with PDRN

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