ADVERTISEMENT INFO: SOME PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN THIS POST ARE PR (GIFTED) AND LINKS USED ARE AFFILIATE LINKS. I RECEIVED NO MONEY TO WRITE THE BLOGPOST. PLEASE READ DISCLAIMER
When you read ‘6.5% retinoid’ on a product like the Sunday Riley A+ High Dose Retinoid Serum, you probably expect it to be seriously strong. But that number can be a little misleading — and might not mean what you think.
Today we’ll break down what’s behind the percentage, how this serum actually feels on the skin, and what it really does for your skin.
What the Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum claims
An advanced-strength retinoid serum delivers a 6.5% solution of stabilized retinoid blends and botanical, retinol-alternative extracts into the skin.
Combining 5% retinoid ester blend, 1% liposomal-encapsulated retinol blend, and 0.5% blue-green algae with natural, retinoid-alternative activity, this serum fights the signs of aging and improves the look of congested and UV damaged skin. Encapsulated CoQ10 helps to improve the appearance of aging or damaged skin, while rare, Hawaiian white honey, bisabolol, cactus extract, and ginger balance and soothe the skin for the appearance of a calmer, even-toned complexion.
Facts about the Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
Prize and size
One bottle – beautiful deep blu shimmering packaging and a pump – contains 30 ml and is available for 85 € on the website here. There is also 15 ml for 50 € and 50 ml for 122 € options for those that either want to test the waters first or that already know that they love it.
Texture and smell
Now if you have read anything about this product online, you probably know that it has a controversial smell. The worst thing I have read is that it smells like unwashed feet, others said it reminded them of melted crayons, while some people didn’t seem bothered by the scent at all. Here at my house we are divided: I think it has a distinct and unpleasant musky smell, my husband claims he doesn’t notice any scent at all. I think you need to sniff it to see for yourself in which category you fall, but whatever ypu perceive, the scent isn’t strong or overpowering. The product is runnier than I expected and slightly yellow, something not uncommon in retinoid blends. The texture is beautiful, spreads easily and leaves the skin feeling soft without tackiness.
How to use the Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
Retinoids are supposed to be used at night, a recommendation that comes from the instability of the actual ingredient when exposed to UV. It is unclear if this instability is an actual issue once it is formulated into a product, and even more unclear if it also is true for stabilized complexes like the ones used in this serum, but the recommendation still stands. (More info: Your easy guide to retinoids)
You best use it at night and either after cleansing on dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer after it has absorbed or, if you are very sensitive to retinoids and want to buffer it, after a moisturizer or an oil to slow absorption. If you have never used retinoids before, start gradually by using it every third and then every other night, slowly building up to nightly use. Oh, and if you for whatever reason can’t use it nightly, keep it at every second or every third night – there are some people online telling you that if you can’t use your retinol every day, you might as well not bother at all, but that is simply not true. (More info: How to use Retin-A with minimal irritation)
I always recommend keeping your actives separate to minimize the risk of irritation, so using your acids in the mornings or on a different night, but of course every skin reacts different and you can see what works best for you. Despite the name I don’t think this is a high strength retinoid.
Ingredients of the Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
sii|h 0 0, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Hexyldecanol emo, Disiloxane, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone emu|surf, Diheptyl Succinate emo, Propylene Carbonate solv|vc, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate 
cci, PPG-24-Glycereth-24 emu|solv|surf, Phenyl Trimethicone emo, Retinol cci, Ubiquinone (Coq10) aox, Honey Extract h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Algae Extract emo|h, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract so|h, Bisabolol so, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter emo, Phospholipids sii|emo, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract h, Lecithin emo|emu, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer vc, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene emo|vc 2 1, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, 4-T- Butylcyclohexanol so|cci, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate emu, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil emo 0 0, Sorbitol h 0 0, Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide emo, Polysilicone-11, Benzoic Acid pres, Dehydroacetic Acid pres, Sodium Phytate chel, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polysorbate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid so, Stearic Acid emo|vc 0 2–3, Brassica Campestris Sterols emo, PVP vc 0 0, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Benzoate pres, Alcohol 
amic|solv|vc, Potassium Phosphate buff, Decyl Glucoside surf, Phenoxyethanol pres, Hexylene Glycol solv|emu|perf|surf 0–1 0–2, Potassium Sorbate pres, Tocopherol aox 0–3 0–3Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.
So what about the 6.5% Sunday Riley has put on the label here – isn’t that quite high? Usually retinol serums are at 1% or lower in concentration.
Well, this 6.5% are a mixture of 5% Retinol-Ester blend, 1% liposomal encapsulated retinol blend (not 1% retinol, 1% retinol blend, so again a lower concentration of retinol) and 0.5% blue-green algae claiming retinol-like activity. The most potent here is probably the 1% liposomal blend, as it has actual retinol encapsulated for enhanced stanility and delivery. The 5% retinol-ester sounds impressive, but retinol-esters need the most conversion steps to get into the active form, meaning 5% here isn’t comparable to a 5% retinol – they need to be converted into retinol, then retinal and then Retinoic Acid to have an effect. And the 0.5% blue-green algae … I am so over plant extracts claiming a “retinol-like” activity I won’t even mention it anymore.
On the ingredient list you will also find 0.5% Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate – you might have heard of it as Granactive Retinoid. Taken all that into account, I would argue that this is a low to medium strength product, depending on the actual potency of the retinol ester blend that I can’t judge.
To go with that you have humectants like Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid, Ubiquinone or Coenzyme Q10 as antioxidant and a few soothing ingredients like Bisabolol and Phospholipids to help the skin stay calm. Shea butter for smoothing the skin and Dimethicone to give that beautiful texture with great spreadability. (More info: The benefits of Hyaluronic Acid in skincare explained and Are silicones in skincare bad for you?)
More info: How to read the ingredient list in your skincare products
Does it live up to its claims?
I am torn.
In the actual claims, they call it advanced strength retinoid, which would be okay. In the name they say it is a High Dose, which in my opinion it isn’t. The rest of the claims are standard retinoid claims, I won’t argue with them.
How does it compare to…
The Inkey List 1% Retinol Serum – Scar, Mark and Wrinkle Solution
This is a true 1% Retinol, no blends or similar, so what I would call a high strength retinoid. It is marketed for scars, hyperpigmentation and to treat wrinkles and will do all that in the way any over the counter product will: slowly and subtly. The texture is less elegant than the Sunday Riley one, but if that is worth the high price difference is something you need to decide.
You can read my full review of The Inkey List Scar, Mark and Wrinkle Solution here.
The Inkey List Retinol Serum
If you are confused by which one is which, you are probably not alone. The Retinol Serum is the older of the two and features encapsulated retinol, so is in my opinion weaker than the Scar and Wrinkle solution and probably at the same strength as the Sunday Riley version. Again, Sunday Riley is much more beautiful in texture, but also vastly more expensive, meaning you need to decide which part you want to weigh more in your decision to purchase.
You can read my full review of The Inkey List Retinol here.
Would I repurchase and which skin types do I recommend the Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum to?
I admit I am torn if the Sunday Riley A+ High Dose Retinoid Serum is something I would recommend. On the pro side it has a beautiful texture and makes the skin feel instantly smooth, the cons are the “high dose retinoid” claim that in my opinion isn’t backed by the ingredients they are using – I think it is medium strength at best – and that feels slightly misleading with the 6.5% prominent on the label when only a fraction of this 6.5% is actually retinol. My husband who doesn’t really care about claims is a fan due to how his skin feels after using it, so I think in the end it comes down to how you personally feel about that and how much you are willing to pay as it isn’t exactly cheap.
The lower strength means it might be a good option for people not experienced with retinoids and the high price point makes it probably more suitable for this among us that are more mature and willing to splurge. Because a significant part of the price reflects the branding and luxurious packaging, not just the formulation itself.
Shop Sunday Riley skincare here
Don’t forget to check out the Discount Code Page on top if you want to save some money on your next skincare purchase, or click here to let me build a personalized skincare routine for you.
If you want to get more involved and pick my next topics or see exclusive behind the scenes content, don’t forget you can head over here and become a YouTube Channel Member!
