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You might have noticed on their website that many facetheory products now come as original version and as PRO version, in which according to the brand “their peptide power was increased”. For some that meant the addition of peptides to previously peptide-free products, for others like the facetheory Polypep Collagen Boosting Serum Pro, that additional peptides were added to enhance performance.
So let’s take a look at the new formula and see what I think. After all, with 49 € the serum isn’t exactly cheap! Oh, and if you want to learn more about the benefits of peptides in skincare in general, I have a dedicated blogpost here, as I won‘t be able to go into much detail in this review.
What the facetheory Polypep Collagen Boosting Serum S8 PRO claims
Introducing our enhanced Polypep Collagen Boosting Serum S8 PRO, now featuring a higher concentration of peptides. Enriched with gluconolactone, a polyhydroxy acid, this combination of actives promotes collagen production and gently exfoliates for a firmer, smoother and youthful appearance. The formulation has been infused with Centella Asiatica, Turmeric root and Rambutan fruit extracts for their skin firming and antioxidant properties.
Facts about the facetheory Polypep Collagen Boosting Serum S8 PRO
Prize and size
One dark glass dropper bottle contains 30 ml and is available for 49 € on the website here. For comparison, the original version is 36 € for the same amount.
Texture and smell
It is clear, quite runny and without any noticeable scent. On the skin it feels a little thicker than I had expected, given it is so runny, and leaves a kind of creamy layer after application that might be too much for those with more oily skin.
How to use the facetheory Polypep Collagen Boosting Serum S8 PRO
Serums go on after cleansing and toning and before moisturizer or sunscreen, and this one can be used morning or night or even twice a day if you want to. (More info: What is a serum and do you need one?)
Despite claiming to gently exfoliate, the exfoliating agent is Gluconolactone, a Polyhydroxy Acid that offers very little exfoliation, but is hydrating, so I don’t think you can overdo it when using it twice a day. (More info: The benefits of Polyhydroxy Acids in skincare explained)
Peptides work well with other ingredients, so it is easy to layer with the rest of your skincare
Ingredients of the facetheory Polypep Collagen Boosting Serum PRO
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.
The main humectants used are Urea and Glycerin, that is the same in both the old and the PRO version, and both contain Centella Asiatica Extract for its potential wound healing, collagen promoting and antioxidant benefits. (More info: The benefits of Centella Asiatica extract in skincare explained)
The peptide that is present in both formulas is Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, claiming to boost different skin-structure proteins, which in turn should reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
New in the PRO formula are Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 and -11, Tripeptide-1 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diactetate (or Syn-Ake). Syn-Ake belongs to the group of peptides claiming botox-like effects – we have talked about that already – and Tripeptide-1 is a fragment of Collagen Type I, working off the theory that the presence of collagen fragments tells the skin to replace the one apparently broken down, leading to collagen stimulation.
Both Acetyl Tetrapeptide 9 and 11 target collagen as well, with -11 stimulating production and -9 hindering the collagen breakdown, so basically build new collagen and protect the old one.
Also new are Tumeric Extract instead of Chamomile Extract and a few other plant extracts that mainly offer antioxidant benefits.
Does it live up to its claims?
At least as far as I can tell, you can‘t really see that effect during the time using a product and especially with peptides the science isn‘t as obvious as it is with sunscreen for example.
How does it compare to…
The Ordinary Buffet Serum
Another peptide serum featuring quite a few similar peptides (Syn-Ake for example, and Acetyl-Hexapeptide 8), but also a few different ones. The ones that are different are the ones that are more exotic (which is an euphemism for very little data), so I can’t really tell if they would make a difference in effect. The texture is comparable, as is the feeling on the skin.
NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3
Now this one is a Copper Peptide serum, which is different to a regular peptide serum, I know that. I merely mention it here because it is my (copper) peptide serum of choice, repurchased several times. I talked about Copper Peptides in length here, and the texture of NIODs version is perfect for my skin type. If it is worth the kind of high price is something you need to decide for yourself, I personally swear by it.
Would I repurchase and which skin types do I recommend the facetheory Polypep Collagen Boosting Serum PRO to?
Overall it is a nice serum with an interesting blend of peptides, but for my personal taste a little too rich on the skin. I will stick to my copper peptide serums, as from all the peptides with their limited research behind them, they do have the most and with the one from NIOD I have found a lovely lightweight texture. If your skin is more on the dry side though, you might appreciate the richness more than I do.
Shop facetheory skincare here
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